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French Lick and West Baden Springs History Visiting French Lick and West Baden Springs The French Lick Springs Resort
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French Lick and West Baden Springs:
Where the Glory of the Past Lives On French Lick and West Baden Springs have long enjoyed the reputation of a grand resort area in Southern Indiana. Since the early 1900’s, travelers have flocked to these adjoining towns to enjoy the area’s mineral springs, casinos and two of the grandest hotels in the world. Today French Lick and West Baden Springs still offer the same luxuries, as well as anything else a traveler could want in a vacation destination. From mineral baths, fine dining and spas to horseback riding, French Lick and Orange County has it all.
The swimming pool at French Lick Springs Resort French Lick and West Baden Springs History The first to discover the region known as the Springs Valley, were probably the buffalo. En route from Vincennes to the Falls of the Ohio, buffalo were drawn to mineral springs and salt licks in this hilly area. By the late 1800’s people began to recognize the potential of the natural mineral springs, and claimed the waters could cure anything from alcoholism to constipation. Dr. William Bowles was the first to cash in on the natural phenomenon by building the French Lick House in 1832. By 1855 a rival establishment was built just a mile away, which would later be called West Baden Springs Hotel after the famous springs of Weisbaden, Germany. Both bottled and marketed the waters for their curative powers. These two grand hotels enjoyed enormous success. By 1880, fourteen thousand guests visited the French Lick House annually. By 1890 the Monon Railroad offered round trip tickets to French Lick from any railroad that ran through Indiana, Illinois, Ohio and Kentucky. The Springs Valley proved fertile ground for entrepreneurs. In 1900 Thomas Taggart, Indianapolis mayor and hotel man purchased 350 acres, and with his associates founded the French Lick Springs Hotel Company. The West Baden resort was purchased by Lee Sinclair, of Salem, Indiana. When the original West Baden hotel burned in 1901, Sinclair vowed to rebuild within a year, this time out of fire-proof material. He did just that, finishing his famous domed resort in 1902.
The archway leading up to West Baden Springs French Lick and West Baden Springs prospered. Elite visitors like the DuPonts, the Studebakers, and even Helen Keller visited the valley to swim, golf, horseback ride, and “take the waters”. Boxer Joe Louis trained at the West Baden Springs Hotel. In 1923 illegal gambling was attracting a new class of visitors to the French Lick area, and brought in a new source of revenue. Ed Ballard, a local entrepreneur whose fortune had been made in casinos and circus ownership took over the West Baden Springs Hotel. Although he did not allow gambling in the hotel, his casino was connected to the resort by a 300 foot double-decked walkway. Though gambling was illegal, it brought life, excitement and lots of money to the Valley. French Lick was frequented by Chicago gangsters such as Al Capone, and there was even a look-out loft built into Ed Ballard’s home, the Beechwood Mansion. Two of the most influential and wealthiest men in Indiana had political clout as well. Tom Taggart, who owned the French Lick Resort was a Democrat, while Ed Ballard of West Baden Springs was a Republican. They both had an interest in keeping gambling “overlooked”, if not legal. In 1929, the Depression hit, and French Lick and West Baden did not escape the effects. Within days of the stock market crash the hotel guests were gone. Ed Ballard sold the West Baden hotel for just $1.00 to the Jesuits, who ran it for 30 years. The once magnificent West Baden Springs Hotel would eventually suffer neglect and come close to collapse.
The French Lick Springs Resort The French Lick Springs Resort has managed to survive, having been in continuous operation since 1834. Today it is a thriving, expanding, full service resort where visitors can experience a taste of the grandeur that lives on in beautiful French Lick, Indiana. Visiting French Lick and West Baden Springs Today French Lick is enjoying a resurgence of interest with visitors from all over the world. Travelers can still enjoy the luxurious accommodations of either the French Lick Springs Resort, or The Beechwood Inn just across the street. The West Baden Springs Hotel has been named a National Historic Landmark and has undergone a $30 million restoration. Visitors can tour the grounds and see the restoration in progress at what has been called “the Eighth Wonder of the World. For those looking for a more “back to nature” vacation, the Wilstem Guest Ranch with horseback riding and guest cabins is just a few miles away. And nearby Patoka Lake is an 8,800 acre reservoir that offers camping, cabins, fishing, bike trails and more outdoor fun. The French Lick Springs Resort has been in continuous operation since 1834. Each of its 485 guest rooms is unique, with decor reminiscent of its timeless splendor. There is something for the whole family at this full-service resort. Guests can still enjoy mineral water baths, massages and whatever else the body needs at the spa. Golfers have two courses to choose from, one designed in 1920 by Scottish designer Donald Ross. Visitors as well as guests are welcome to stroll around the gardens and beautiful grounds.
A view of French Lick Springs Resort from the gardens The front desk and lobby at French Lick Springs Resort Kids can now find as much to enjoy as the adults. The recreational area within the hotel has a bowling alley and video games, and swimming under the dome of the pool is an experience no child will forget. There is also miniature golf, horseback riding, archery, volleyball, badminton and even surrey rides.
The tennis courts at French Lick Springs Resort The Indiana Railway Museum is just a short walk away, where train buffs can explore diesel and steam locomotives and a 1951 dining car. Twenty-minute rides let visitors experience a taste of the past when train travel was the fashion in French Lick’s heyday. On board the French Lick Scenic Railway, guests can expect to experience a “Wild West Hold-Up” on several weekends during the summer. The Beechwood Mansion is home to the Beechwood Inn, Restaurant, and the French Lick Wine and Coffee Company. Built in 1915, The Beechwood Mansion was the private home of Ed Ballard, whose holdings included hotels, casinos and six circuses. He spared no expense when building his home. Marble fireplaces were imported from France and Greece, fountains and statuary from Italy, and black walnut paneling from the Black Sea.
The kitchen staff at the Beechwood Inn Today guests can sleep in the lap of luxury in any of the six guest rooms. The Beechwood Inn is filled with antiques from the early days when Ed Ballard and Tom Taggart were prominent French Lick figures. The furnishings include Taggart antiques and even one of the Ballard casino tables. The restaurant is in what was once Ed Ballard’s library, designed to look like a train’s club car.
The Beechwood Mansion The Beechwood Country Inn Restaurant offers some of the finest dining in the state in a fabulous setting. Dominique Adraun, who manages the French Lick Springs Resort, is a master chef who oversees the Beechwood’s kitchen. Each person in the kitchen graduated from a culinary school, and together they present a remarkable meal. I was fortunate to enjoy the Beechwood’s Signature Dish, the Golden Halibut followed by a desert called the Napoleon, which had three layers of puff pastry with strawberries, chocolate, kiwi and raspberries. It was a meal to remember! Monica Audran, who manages the inn, also offers luncheons, afternoon teas, high teas and special events such as weddings in the gardens.
Words cannot describe the awe one feels in experiencing the West Baden Springs Hotel up close. Every detail is exquisite, from intricate ceramic tiling on the floors to the magnificent domed atrium. The glass and steel domed atrium was the world’s largest clear-span dome until the 1960’s when the Houston Astrodome was built. It’s been called “The Eighth Wonder of the World”.
The inside of the dome at West Baden Springs Hotel
The atrium at West Baden Springs Hotel In 1996 Historic Landmarks Foundation of Indiana purchased the property, and with the generosity of the Indiana-based business Cook Group, a $34 million project has allowed continued restoration. Today tours of the hotel are offered seven days a week. Since 1996 when restoration began, 139,000 people have toured "the dome". If you tend to be a more adventurous type, you might find the Wilstem Guest Ranch to be right down your alley. This 1100 acre ranch has miles of trails for horseback riding, mountain biking or hiking. You can bring your own horse or rent one of theirs and on many evenings you can even enjoy a hay ride. When you're done exploring the trails you can spend some time canoeing, playing volleyball, swimming in the pool or soaking in a hot tub.
The Lodge at Wilstem Guest Ranch The overnight accommodations include 2 and 3 bedroom cabins, a lodge with 10 guest rooms and 6.5 baths or the new honeymoon/anniversary suites in the old carriage house. The lodge boasts a kitchen, bar, color TV, VCR, and a large fireplace in the Great Room. There is also a hot tub in the garden by the reflecting pool for lodge guests. The two bedroom cabins are equipped with central air, heat, full bath, linens, color TV and VCR. They also have a complete kitchen and a sleeper sofa in the living room accommodating up to 6 people. The cabins also have either a gas or wood fireplace as well as grills, fire pits and picnic tables. The deluxe three bedroom cabin has a private jacuzzi-style tub.
Some of the horses at Wilstem Guest Ranch The Wilstem Guest Ranch is not only the perfect place for a quiet weekend getaway, but it is also well-suited for family reunions or corporate retreats. There is a large banquet hall above the red barn that is ideal for large gatherings, dances etc. Not far from French Lick is Patoka Lake. This 8800 acre reservoir boasts one of the largest campgrounds in the state, nine fully improved launching ramps, state park facilities and a private marina.
Patoka Lake One interesting attraction is the unique solar heated Visitor Center where you will find expertise and knowledge of Patoka’s natural phenomena. While 26,000 acres of shoreline are reserved for public use, you will still find cozy cabins and rustic chalets tucked away at Patoka Lake.
Patoka Lake's solar heated Visitor Center The lake is located in Orange, Dubois and Crawford counties on the Patoka River.
More Information: Historic Landmarks at West Baden Springs: (800) 450-4534 Beechwood Country Inn: (812) 936-4686 French Lick Springs Resort: (800) 457-4042, or www.frenchlick.com Patoka Lake: (812) 685-2464 Indiana Railway Museum (812) 936-2405 |
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All Feature Articles, artwork and photographs ©2000 by Southernin.com. Some information on the 'County Info' pages is taken directly from brochures published by Visitors Bureaus and Chambers of Commerce.
